Schrattenkalk in Kairo
10/04/10

Now it is time to talk about the nature and landscapes between Kosti and Juba. Basically the trip is divided into three sections. First from Kosti to somewhere after the point where the Sobat river splits off. From there nearly all the way to Bor is the Sudd, the large Sudanese swamp area. From Bor onwards the landscape changes again.

From Kosti down to the Sobat the Nile is wide and the river is still crossing rather dry areas. Therefore the vegetation is mostly only around the river itself, it is low with some interspersed trees and palms. Generally the riverbanks are rather dry now, however this area, as all the others we passed through, surely look very different during the rainy season. The first new element in the landscape is only a couple of hours after Kosti, a small town situated under two hill, fittingly name Jabalain (two mountains). Just before reaching Malakal the river suddenly is lined by palm trees. Already at this point and from here onwards for the whole trip, there was big plants swimming in the water. They grow on the side of the river and I presume that they rip off with the seeds, swim further down and then grow again on the side of the river at a lower point. While it seems obvious how this plant moves down the river, I wonder why it doesn’t die out further up the river –especially as the seeds, if my interpretation that this were seeds is correct, are approximately half the size of a fist and cannot be moved by wind. Sometimes the water was practically full of these swimming plants.

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09/04/10

What do you do for two weeks on a boat?

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08/04/10

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As you already know I spent two weeks on a boat travelling from Rabak to Juba. The boat consist of a pusher which has an engine and where the crew is sleeping, eating and working and four barges which transport the goods, as well as people. The crew consists of the captain and his assistant, two other navigators and their assistants, two mechanics, one engineer, one electrician, one cook and the kitchen boy, the so called comissario who is responsible for all papers and all money, one head of barge for each of the four barges, who is responsible for security and supervises the loading and off-loading. Thanks to all these people, that is seventeen, the boat can basically travel all day round without major delays. (The pictures show above a mechanic and below the captain at work, a navigator, another mechanic, the cook, one head of barge.)

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06/04/10

To kick off the floating to Juba post series, for now just some pictures of our boat and other boats we saw on the way. More pictures and more importantly some text will follow soon. Promise.

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14/03/10

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I just found a new feature of my blog engine: Time stamped posts. In theory this post should only appear on my blog by March 14th. And in theory by this time I should be floating on the Nile towards Juba. I say, in theory, because originally the trip was supposed to start on March 17th, was then pulled forward to March 9th and finally delayed to the 14th. I Should be floating on a boat which looks like the one pictured above. What you can see is a so called pusher boat. It will push four barges which carry the actual cargo.

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13/03/10

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In the late 19th century Sudan was ruled by Turkish / Egyptian / Albanian aristocrats. In this period which is usually known as the “Turkiyya” a certain Muhammad Ahmad declared himself Mahdi. A Mahdi is a apocalyptic figure in Islam, who according to certain traditions is supposed to appear before the end of times to create a just kingdom on earth. The Mahdi managed to throw out the Egyptian but dies soon after. His successor Khalifa Abdullahi was defeated by an Anglo-Egyptian army in 1898. During the Anglo-Egyptian condominium one of the sons of the Mahdi –Sayyed Abd Al-Rahman Al-Mahdi (the British used to abbreviate this with SAR in their dcuments)–  was able to reassert his position in his fathers movement and restructure the movemnt along the lines of a politically involved Sufi brotherhood, the Ansar as they exist in Sudan today.

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12/03/10

On the side of the road between Kosti and Khartoum a number of little shacks catch one’s eye. Their main sales good seems to consist of many many colured buckets. In these buckets the local farmers are selling their cheese. And so it is that seemingly in the middle of the desert in the glistening sun young man stand and sell cheese in colourful buckets.

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11/03/10

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Kadugli is the capital of the Nuba Mountains, also known as the South Kordofan Province. The Nuba Mountains were the site of massive fighting in the last part of the North South conflict. Since then the Nuba have been strongly supporting the SPLM, the liberation movement from the Southern Sudan. Nevertheless the Nuba Mountains are a distinct region with a different history and different interests. The region administratively belongs to the northern Sudan. Culturally the Nuba stand in the middle and even when it comes to religion, there is large numbers of both, Christians and Muslim.

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26/02/10

Happy Mawlid to all of you!

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14/02/10

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