















New year in the Sudanese desert was a very dry experience in multiple ways. Nevertheless it was lots of fun. I went with Mary and Christoph (my former flatmate from Zurich) who arrived on the 30th and Fatima (a Sudanese friend of mine) and her sister tocamp at the pyramids of Meroe. In the morning we looked at the pyramids and after lunch we visited Naqa on the way back to Khartoum. We eventually arrived in Khartoum in the evening, exhausted and sandy, but happy.
















Another year comes to an end, and what an end. Copenhagen came down in utter failure, but who cares, as long as we can go to the cinema and enjoy the escapist visions of Avatar and 2012. I look back at the year an try to remember. The beginning of the year marked with hope. No, not just hope… it was HOPE, the HOPE of the Obamania. But as the OED tells us, mania is nothing more than a mental illness marked by periods of great excitement, euphoria and delusions. And so it seems with great hope we welcomed a new era which turned out to be nothing more than the presidency of a lame duck. Ma3lesh, as the Arabs say. Bukra insha’allah. Tomorrow maybe. Or to quote Samuel Beckett:
“All of old.
Nothing else ever.
Ever tried.
Ever failed.
No matter.
Try again.
Fail again.
Fail better.”
But let me not grieve the politics, which as I have been told is a hobby and luxury of the upper middle-class. How was my year? Since I have been extremely lazy when it comes to writing blog posts, I probably need to catch up now. I started the year in Switzerland, then visited Bulgaria, went back to Oxford, went to Bergen in Norway for my research, back to Oxford and then during my break to see my brother in Thailand and travelled with him to Cambodia. In the following four months I was twice in Egypt, three times in Germany, once in Durham and usually in Oxford. Then I went to Switzerland, Bergen, Oxford, Egypt and finally arrived in the Sudan. Wow. One year, ten countries and twenty-seven flights later I sit here in Sudan complaining about Copenhagen. So much about the duplicity of Europeans.
But it is not only a year coming to an end, but even a whole decade – which in English I am told is called the “Noughties”. Ten years ago I finished high school and then in the beginning of this decade I left to go backpacking in Africa. Eventually I started to study in the end of 2000, which brought me to Zurich, where I stayed with interruptions until 2007. Hey, what a decade, especially regarding technology. In February or March 2000 I was here in Khartoum and one of the only places to get internet was the defunct Goethe institute, at the time known as German Sudanese friendship centre. Now I surf the internet with an mDSL connection which allows me to watch Youtube and live TV. Basically every major website or service I use on a regular basis was created in the last 10 years; such as Wikipedia, Skype, Facebook and YouTube – with Amazon and Google being the only major exceptions. In the same period many technologies became popular, be it mobile phones, smart phones, iPods and iPhones, GPS, RSS, Blogs, IPTV, etc.
Also politically it was a tumultuous period, with September 11th, the Iraq and Afghanistan wars, the global economic crisis just to name a few of the disasters. But on the other hand 12 new countries joined the European Union and the Euro was adopted as currency – truly interesting times. The shocking realisation of course is, that I have spent all of that decade in university in some way – and of course I still am in university for a couple of years to come. But I guess this is a good thing. While the world economy is in shambles, one really gets to appreciate the tradition and stability of an institution like Oxford. What is the plan for the next decade? To travel to another 39 countries, live in at least 3 of them; to meet new people but even more importantly, to keep in touch with old friends all around the world; to finish my DPhil I guess, and to figure out what I could do next; to go sky diving once and to eat Fugu in Japan and chocolate in São Tomé and Príncipe.
I look forward to seeing as many as possible of you in 2010, especially on my birthday. It’s going to be a big one: 20. 10. 2010.
I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year,
Moritz
.
PS: What better way to end this, than with three pictures of me; in 2002, 2005 and 2009… yes it was a truly hairy decade.



My stay in Egypt is already over again. In a little more than a week I will fly back to Britain and on the next day to Switzerland, where I’ll spend most of September. Ping me if you’re around and have time to meet up. I have not posted much on Egypt this stay, not to say, nothing so far. But this is partially because I have been here so many times and have posted so many pictures already. Last week-end however I travelled for the first time to Al-Fayoum oasis, which is about an hour south of Cairo (link to Google Maps). It is hard to show it in pictures what is so special about Fayoum, the satellite picture on Google Maps however is very instrcutive int his respect. Nevertheless, here are some shots of our trip…











I should start with a short disclaimer: This post is motivated by various discussions I had in Egypt about the West, especially after the recent killing of an Egyptian woman in a German court. This is not an academic post in any sense. I basically threw together some thoughts and ideas. If I hope to do anything with this text, then it is an objectification of a currently very emotional debate –and be that only in the case of the two people who take the time reading it. If you have no idea who Marwa is, well start by having a look on Bikya Masr. They also report on the reactions in the Middle East.
The story of Marwa al-Schirbini has raised a number of questions, in the West as well as the Arab world. Most of these questions are legitimate, but the problem is, that the issues need to be disentangled. The issues at stake, as far as I understand it, are: Immigration in Europe and the failure of the multi-cultural society, the challenge of liberal societies how to react to non-liberal and anti-liberal currents within those societies, the new islamophobic currents and the old extreme right, popular ignorance and tendencies of reporting in modern media. Each of these issues is distinct, even if the boundaries at times may be illusive and overlapping.
Immigration in Europe and the failure of multi-cultural societies: Immigration in Europe has a long history and grave mistakes have been made by all involved. Furthermore immigration in Europe is different to immigration in the US, Australia and Canada. Lastly the concept of immigration and the ability to transform immigrants into citizens is different in Europe compared to the US and others. The United States is a country which is based on immigration. If one discounts the minor remaining Amerindian population, all Americans are immigrants of sorts. Therefore there is at least the concept that immigration is positive, that immigrants can make the US a better place and that immigrants can become full Americans. Of course, as we know, this has not always worked out perfectly. One only has to remember the case of the Japanese living in the US during WWII or the debates led over Mexican immigration today. Nevertheless generally speaking, the US have a comparatively high integrative capability.
Additionally the US have for a long time taken in immigrants based on their abilities. If you have a special qualification which is needed in the US, you can immigrate there without major problems. This has resulted in the US, but also Canada and Australia taking the best emigrants from around the world. Europe which never had a proper immigration policy remained with the ones you could not send back for one reason or the other. In consequence, immigrants in the US are in average higher qualified, start working in the US on a higher salary and are quicker part of a mixed work environment than in Europe. This of course strengthens the integrative capacity of the US versus Europe. But this is only part of the story.
The other part is the failure of integration in Europe due to bad policies of the state, as well as wrong expectations of the immigrants themselves. Our governments were caught up somewhere in the middle of two beliefs: Firstly the immigrants would eventually return to their home countries and secondly that immigration would practically happen automatically. Immigrants themselves in many cases believed as well, that they would eventually return home and therefore did not invest as much effort as would have been necessary in learning the language and finding local mixed networks. To look at Germany in specific, we today have a whole generation of immigrants from Turkey, mostly eastern Anatolia, who have very limited language skills, mostly have no German friends and live in a family structure and according to traditions, as they were usual in Eastern Anatolia at the time of their emigration, that is in many cases 40 or 50 years ago. Without being able to become recognised as German (I mean identity, not nationality) people stuck to their old identities, which of course, being away from home, did not go through eventual changes which happened all over Turkey.
The idea of politicians, that integration is an individual task, which will eventually happen anyway, has of course not made this any better. And only in the last ten years reforms are slowly put in place. However it will be an extremely difficult task to integrate these people and their children today, as they have already and successfully created parallel societies; societies which function according to their own rules and traditions and in many cases according to their own laws. This is the background on which all other discussions are happening.
The challenge of liberal societies how to react to non-liberal and anti-liberal currents within those societies: The European societies aim to liberal, individual, secular and egalitarian. Everyone should be able to become happy according to their own wishes and ideas. Secondly European societies are individual as they do not or only rarely recognise any right but individual rights. Lastly European societies want to be egalitarian, as they try to give everyone the same chances in life. This is very well as long as their is a general consensus that this should be the case. And of course, all of that is theory. No society is ever perfectly liberal or individual or egalitarian or secular. Besides the debate on these issues led within the German society on these issues, there is an individual and a systemic challenge to this by some immigrants in our societies.
The systemic challenge is an easier one to handle, as it constitutes a crime in most of our societies, no matter if presented by a local or an immigrant. Left and right extremists which want to topple democracy, are as clearly outlawed as movements which want to create an Islamic state. But it is on the basis of the systemic challenge on which the individual challenge is debated. The individual challenge can be a born-again Christian who does not ant to send his kids to a government school, it can be a teacher who wants to have a cross in a class room, but it also includes the whole European debate on head scarfs, forced marriages and honour killings. The argument relating to the head scarf in the Middle East is usually that if Europe has Freedom of Religion people should be allowed to wear head scarfs. Yes, this is of course true - but the issue is not as easy as that. The problem of our societies is that you should have the right to wear a head scarf, but you also should have the right not to. How do you tell if a woman wears the head scarf because she wants to or because her family forces her to do so? Any answer to this question is an approximation at best and in result you end up with individual cases where a law applies, although it probably should not. We do not know family or group rights. The right to do or not do something is individual and it is the individual right which the European states try to enforce. It is generally the same problem related to all issues of equality of women. A woman should be able to chose to work or not to. But if someone goes back to his home town to marry a girl and comes back to Europe with her, which choice does she have, not being able to speak the language or understand the society –the husband being the only mediator between her and this society.
This debate is complicated, often relates to symbols in stead of actual issues and sometimes in result we end up with laws which are less than satisfactory. But this is part of a democratic process in which you haggle out the rules for a next generation. In many cases it is trial and error. In theory every citizen, and many people in Europe with an immigration background are today citizens, has the same right to influence these democratic processes and make their voice heard. But of course there is always a difference between the right to do something and the ability –and how would someone who barely speaks the language really participate in a complex process as this? But even that being said, we have numerous parliamentarians in most European countries, which have an immigration background in their family (e.g. for Germany you can google Cem Özdemir, Lale Akgün, Hakki Keskin, Omid Nouripour, Josip Juratowic or the new wunderkind of the greens, Tarek Al-Wazir) . And it is important to note, that they are often the most outspoken, when it comes to implementing rules, which are afterwards criticised in the Middle East.
The new islamophobic currents and the old extreme right: There is a new islamophobic movement in Europe and they are not identical with the former extreme right. Before saying anything more about this, I should point out, that extreme right wing and islamophobic groups are a small minority in Europe. While in some countries they enjoy momentarily a high popularity, as in the Netherlands, these movements are not represented or only very small in parliaments of many other European countries, as Germany or Britain. However these movements exist and one has to watch them clearly. Currently they are a weird mix of members of the lower-middleclass who are disillusioned with the traditional parties, a mix of various types of individuals, often old people, who mainly care about local issues (i.e. they don’t ant to live besides a mosque), some former members of the extreme right who believe to have found a path to carry their ideology into mainstream society and a small number of conservative intellectuals who for one reason or the other seem to sympathise with this new current.
Most of the people who could be counted into this current are mere followers, who do not care too much about the actual ideas, but are afraid their regions or countries may lose their “authentic identities”. But there is a core group of actual islamophobes. This core group is without question very small, but at the same time they are very active online, be it on their own websites or commenting on other sites and posting on YouTube, etc. The central problem with this group is not so much its existence. Idiots live in every country of this earth. The problem is that they more or less successfully hijack any discussion about Islam, immigration and integration and because of that it is even more difficult to have the discussion I outlined in the beginning. By hijack I do not mean that they win the debate, but that they yell so loudly, that a debate for everyone else is not possible anymore. It is in a way a similar phenomenon as the Islamists on the web. They are so predominant and loud, that the voices of the majority of Muslims are drowned in the noise.
Popular ignorance and tendencies of reporting in modern media: There is without question widespread ignorance in the western world when it comes to Islam. I would believe that a majority by now would know that Muhammad is the prophet of Islam (yes I know that Islam recognises many more prophets, but I wouldn’t think that most people know that) and that Qur’an is the holy book of Islam. But I guess this is about as much as people know. I don’t think a majority could explain Ramadan or Hajj or the relevance of Mecca. But of course people know other things, the things which are widely reported, such as terrorist attacks, al-Qaeda and maybe even the Somali Islamic Courts. Many Middle Easterners believe that this is due to an ideological, racist or anti-Muslim bias of our media. But I do not think that is true –or at least this is not the central factor.
Our media outlets today report what is considered as news worthy and what is considered to increase readership or number of viewers. Newsworthy is anything which hits home, anything which affects the lives of the readers or viewers directly and anything which is extreme. Earthquakes are extreme, terrorist attacks are extreme, famines and crises are extreme. Nobody reports on steady economic growth in Ghana or the state of the Korean car manufacturers in Europe, because Europeans don’t care. But if thousands of people lose their money due to a stock market crash in Ghana, I am sure this would be reported. In consequence bad news, crises and bad people are over-represented in our news. This is no problem when it comes to France, as most people have been in France and know how to balance that out, but it is a problem when it comes to Africa or the Middle East, because the only source of knowledge people have, is what they consume in media. But the picture is not that bad in the end. Our governments spend millions on anti-racism programs to educate people. Government owned radio and TV channels have programs are tasked with educating people about the world, not selling news or increasing viewers. In consequence they can show things others can’t. Sometimes they are good in doing this and sometimes they are not.
Yes our media could be better and there is still a lot of work to do, but at the same time one must point out that the Muslim world does not always do itself a favour. Going on the street and demonstrating against racist Germany, attacking German embassies and calling for Germany being kicked out of the UN, did not make a great impression on people. These are not the balanced and educated voices people should hear and must hear to get a better understanding of Muslim societies around the world. Lastly it is easy to criticise the West for its ignorance of the Muslim world, but I think this criticism is only valid when this ignorance is not returned and in many cases the ignorance of things happening in the West in the Middle East is as large as vice versa.
To come to a conclusion: Yes there is extreme right wing movements and islamophobes in Europe, but these movements are a small minority. Europe in general is not anti-Muslim and our governments are not fighting Islam in our societies. After all, Muslim voters already are far too important to be ignored. At the same time if you want to have a positive effect on this whole debate, you will not have this effect by going on rampage in the Middle East, but only by encouraging Muslims living in Europe taking more influence in the societies they live in by participating in political debates and parties. But as I said in my disclaimer, this is only a quick collection of thoughts and ideas and I am open to debate.
The image shows an anti-German demonstration in Turkey which is a reaction ot the Marwa killing. Image credits go to Bikya Masr.

Yes I know. I am slightly off schedule with this one. But I have been travelling too much recently and it was hard to catch up. The first chapter of my tale I was able to write after being back from Egypt, just before going to Germany, then to France, to Germany again and again. And now I am once more in Egypt since a week and it seems I need a quite Cairo weekend to be able to get together my notes on this one. It is a tale of anguish and heroism, of stupidity and failure, but also of frogs, snakes and monkeys. Well actually no monkeys, but it always sounds good to mention them.
Where should I start? I believe one could make the argument, that I should start where I have left my story the last time: “The next morning I met up with my brother and eventually after a lengthy breakfast we got on our way to Cambodia. But as they say, that is another story…” That means, after a night on the train from Chiang Mai to Bangkok, we went back to the train station and got the train to the Cambodian border. It was a trip without too much excitement, if one discounts the odd Singaporean traveller who hidden behind large sun glasses rambled on and on about his opinion of Thailand and the other countries in the region – most of which were not too positive. In the early evening we arrived in Aranyapratet, the Thai border town. From here we took a Tuktuk to the border, where we were welcomed by not so friendly, bribe extorting Cambodian officials. Forcing people to pay an express fee seems to be rather common on this border point, where the only alternative is to wait until the officials give up on a bribe, which might be hours later. Finally we arrived in Poi Pet from where we got a ride to Sisophon, the first stop of our trip.
According to the Lonely Planet map Sisophon is a village with merely two roads. The actual town is quite a bit larger as we realised on the next day, but accuracy has never been a strength of Lonely Planet maps. We found a hotel and something to eat and then made the good decision to have a beer somewhere else. The restaurant we found is owned by Cambodian who used to live in Thailand as a refugee during the war. He helped us on the next day to get a taxi to Banteay Chmar and later to get a shared car to Siam Rep. Banteay Chmar which is about 40 kilometres north of Sisophon is an old Khmer temple, which is rarely visited by foreigners. The central part is more or less overgrown by plants. The outer gallery is completely adorned with bas relief, which I think are among the most impressive I have seen in Cambodia. Close to Banteay Chmar is a second site called Banteay Top (see last picture), which consists of a small number of buildings and the remainders of a tower.
As mentioned, from here we travelled on to Siam Rep, the heartland of the Cambodian tourist industry. Siam Rep, which was only a village when the war had ended in Cambodia, has exploded. An uncountable number of restaurants, tourist shops and hotels cater now for the masses which are visiting Ankhor Wat every single day (according to the Cambodian tourism ministry over a million tourists visited Ankhor in 2008). In result, Siam Rep is a tourist heaven without any flair or character, which we were happy to leave quickly. Because of our plan to travel a number of outer temples, which we knew would not be so easy to get to, we decided to spend only one day visiting Ankhor itself. Thankfully my brother has been there a couple of times and was able to create his personal tour of highlights. Walking through the ruins we observed how the Absara, which is the government authority responsible for all historical sites in Siam Rep province, removed a tree close to one of the temples. It was truly stunning to see how much care they took, to cut down the tree piece by piece, to ensure nothing would be harmed in any way. After lots of destruction and looting during the war, Ankhor Wat finally seems to be in good hands. On the evening we went to a restaurant for Cambodian specialities. Most looks similar to Thai food with a few exceptions, including fried frogs and toads. Even mustering all my courage I did not manage to get myself to try the toad, which I tend to regret now.
From Siam Rep we took a pick-up travelling northwards. Around mid-day we arrived in Koh Ker. The city was briefly capital of the Khmer empire in the 10th century. This is the site of an old Khmer pyramid. On top of the pyramid used to stand a giant lingam, which at least in this period probably symbolised a phallus, but researchers are not really unified on this issue. From the pyramid onwards is a street where every hundred meters is another small temple with a small lingam (see last picture). It seems Jayavarman IV, the builder of Koh Ker, had a bit of a personality issue. But not only is Koh Ker the site of a massive symbol of potency (a pyramid which used to be crowned by a phallus symbol), but behind the pyramid there is also a hill. Here we met a French archeologist, working very concentratedly on documenting earth layers in a small cut out trench. The hill as he explained to us, is according to local belief the grave of a white elephant, which had given his daughter a bride to king Jayavarman IV. However the king did not fulfil his part of the deal, which I sadly can’t remember and therefore the white elephant returned to ask for his daughter. The two of them fought a war in which the white elephant died and he was buried in exactly this hill. So much for the myth. The archeologists however belief that it might be the grave of king Jayavarman IV himself. They have by now established by looking at the layers of earth, that the hill is truly artificial. Next year they plan to return to find out if there is a hidden chamber in the hill. If this would be the case, this would be a sensation, as it would be the first grave of a Khmer king, ever discovered. Nevertheless, archeology aside, the locals belief that a spirit of a white elephant lives in the hill and of course spirits are considered very important in this region. Therefore they placed two ghost houses (see pictures) solely devoted to the spirit of the white elephant at the site to appease him with the archeological works conducted on his hill.
On the same day we travelled on to a village between Koh Ker and Tbeng Meanchay, which if I remember correctly, was called Kulen. Here we met a Cambodian engineer who is working with a Chinese firm, which is building new road from Koh Ker to Tbeng Meanchay and then up north towards Prasat Preah Vihear. He was complaining how the Chinese contractors tried to implement the road simply according to plan with no attention to the surrounding area and potential floods and similar things. He further explained that it was very difficult for him, because he has to deal with his Chinese counterpart through a translator, because he does not speak Chinese and his counterpart nothing but Chinese. But truth to be told, we travelled on far stretches of partially and completely finished road and when this road will be finally completed, I am sure it will come as a great relief to the local population. On the next day we tried to travel to Prasat Preah Vihear. It must have been during one of these trips when our car run over a large snake. The car stopped immediately and one of the passengers went over and hit the snake a couple of times on the ground. Then he brought it back with him on to the back of the pick up – for dinner as he explained to us. It was rather disturbing to travel with a most likely dead snake which was nevertheless still moving around all the time, due to the bumps of the road, half hidden under the luggage. Prasat Preah Vihear is a temple on the Thai Cambodian border, which is protected as UNESCO world heritage. Sadly the two governments disagreed for a long time whose temple it actually is and had a number of petty wars on the border. By now the UN has decided that the temple belongs to the Cambodians, but nevertheless there remain a couple of areas around the temple, which are unclear. When we had left Thailand we saw in the newspaper that a number of soldiers had been killed close by the temple in a shoot-out. However we assumed the fighting would end quickly, as it had done so many times before. We managed to get all the way to Choam Ksant. There we tried to hire a motor bike to take us to Prasat Preah Vihear, but for some reason the locals seemed less enthusiastic about this idea. The drivers started to make frantic phone calls and finally told us, that the road to the temple was blocked, because once again Thai and Cambodian troops were fighting. Without any hope to see the temple the next day we left and travelled back to Tbeng Meanchay to stay there for the night.
The trip from Tbeng Meanchay to Ta Seng was divided in two parts. The first part was a pick up ride on the road towards Kompong Thom. It is an especially sandy, dusty road, but also a rather scenic road with many hills and dives. When we got off we were as dirty as you can get (see first two pictures). From there it is a rather challenging ride on the back of a motorbike through the forest, crossing a river and other obstacles. When we finally arrived in Ta Seng, I was happy to rest for a while. Ta Seng is a lovely small Cambodian village. If you try to imagine a picturesque version of rural Cambodia, this is it. Of course, once the rain season comes it is far from picturesque, but a life of scarcity, as the village is more or less cut off the outer world. In the town there is no real restaurant, nor used there to be a real hostel until very recently. Locals are friendly, but of course they are also aware of their negotiating power. Whatever you need, they are the only ones who can get it for you. You have no choice. Very close to Ta Seng is Prasat Preah Khan, which used to be the second biggest city of the Khmer empire. On the first day we walked to Preah Khan and instantly found the first temple. However from there we tried to find any of the others which belong to the site and got quite lost in the rice fields (see second last image). On the second day we decided to rent a motorbike and hire a driver to take us around. Prasat Preah Khan consists of a city, its wall measures one by one kilometre and is totally in tact; a number of temples hidden in the forest on the far side; and three temples on each end and the middle of a former three kilometre long water reservoir which has now disappeared. It is one of the least visited and most impressive sights of Cambodia, I believe.
Being the second biggest city, Prasat Preah Khan was connected with an ancient Khmer road to Ankhor Wat. The bridges of this road are still in tact and the largest one (see second and third picture) is still stable enough to carry cars. The only way to travel this way, is on the back of a motorbike. It is a trip which takes multiple hours and is rather tiring. But seeing the landscape and bridges, some of them deeply hidden in the jungle, is truly rewarding. On the way one can see the pressure for land. Every once in a while we passed smaller and smaller villages, which have been founded only a couple of years ago, by people trying to find new lands for cultivation. The road passes Bang Mealea which is a site usually visited as a day trip from Siam Rep. There we made our last stop before returning to Siam Rep. We climbed for the remainder of the day through the ruins until we were totally exhausted. In Siam Rep we only quickly went for dinner and every step was painful. Finally we went to sleep and on the next day we got on the way back to Bangkok. On the bus to the border we met two young Cambodian monks (see last picture), studying in Bangkok, with whom we ended up travelling all the way back.
When we arrived in Bangkok, we were quickly taken back from the Khmer past into the Thai presence, as we arrived in a town in the middle of a revolution. But again, this is another story…
